![]() Gotten proficient using tweezers and cutters over the years, where the cutters are used to make a hard connection crimp, carefully applying pressure to not cut through the connector pin. The thicker 32AWG insulation will work in 1.0mm JST connectors, while the thinner is even easier to fit. Recently discovered the Maxx Prod 32AWG servo wire with JR colors has lighter weight and thinner insulation than the 32AWG they sell with Futaba colors. Not much current draw with small servos and would use lighter for some apps if I could source it. ![]() I use 32AWG for servo leads, unless maybe 7gms or larger and/or significant wiring length. Not sure of your current draw, but I'd use thinner gauge if acceptable, to shave weight. Often is difficult to assemble connectors with the max speced gauge and average insulation thickness. I don't really want to bother but I'm kind of stuck with this cable crimping stuff. No idea how to do this "practical" stuff since I'm far from an electrician and I've found no guide on how to make cables like this from scratch. I suppose I have to mix and match with different types of smaller wires but how do I know what type? The insulation on my wire seems way too thick but the AWG is correct. Problem is the wire I bought is some silicone-insulated 26AWG which is supposed to within the min-max gauges for all of these connectors but so far none of the crimped cables fit into the connector housings. I have a bunch of different little JST and Molex connectors and the crimps needed to make my own cables so I can wire together my FPV setup (camera and OSD system to vTX) You can use needle nose pliers but its a bit of an art to get reliable consistent secure crimps.Ĭan anyone here give advice on how to make your own cables with these JST connectors? Nearly all "normal" crimpers are too big. It's cheap, easy to find and flexible enough for the job.īTW, these tiny connectors are almost impossible to crimp properly unless you have a crimping tool expressly designed for the small sizes. Nearly all the camera/OSD/vTX harnesses I have seen just use regular plastic insulated wire however. The wire is overall a bit thicker than you normally get with camera/OSD/vTX harnesses but still suitably small. They use the JST-ZH connector, are crimped and remain extremely flexible. The Spektrum remote receiver extensions that Hobbyking sell are an an example. Silicone wire of the proper gauge and with reasonably thin insulation is available. The big advantage of the silicone cables is their flexibility and their resistance to heat when soldering (which is irrelevant if you are crimping them). The silicone insulation on thinner gauge wires often appears to be much thicker than on standard wire. We are using these at such low voltages that even the thinnest wire insulation is fine. The insulation on the cables is pretty irrelevant, it is the wire gauge that matters. Since I left the original conn on the board rather than replace it, I thought I could use it to power the camera. ![]() Flt times will probably drop from 3.5mins to half that with the extra weight but the SA seems stronger than the E010S. I want to mount that camera on the Switch Air. It's a 1.25 Molex Picoblade 2P conn attached to the main board which uses a DSM protocol - probably the DSM2. Now I'm wondering if the camera that came with the eachine E010S quad would also have a reverse polarity plug. I could replace the batt conns with them and reverse them when I solder them on. I also received 10 male connectors in addition to the 10 female connectors with THE MCP-X purchase. I have flown the Switch Air many times since on the HV batts I picked up on eBay with the MCP-X connectors I added. I plugged in the 51005/6 series (LOSI) connector batt twice, before figuring out they are reversed polarity. The reverse polarity would cause your motors to run in reverse but it would normally also cook your electronics. You can get either on the batteries i suspect. The big problem for us is that Losi and Walkera adopted opposite polarity conventions for the 51005. They are a 2mm spacing connector but NOT the same as the JST -PX 2mm series which look like an overgrown Picoblade. Don the "Losi" connectors are Molex 51005/6 series.
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![]() The dual crimp (wire and insulation) results in connections that are plenty robust for multiple uses. The Molex Mini-Fit stuff, while a bit large, is very reliable. We use several types of connector (crimped) at work. Soldering a connector contact designed for crimping increases the likelihood of the wire breaking at the connector body. The improvement gained by soldering was simply due to poor inital practice. But those centered around improper tooling or methods. A good example are the numerous MTA failures with the Klee kit. While it may be true in the isolated case, it is not good practice. ![]() Suggest taking that with a grain of salt. This statement is sure to result in anecdotal reassurances that soldered MTAs and other crimped connectors actually increased their reliability. While soldering a connector designed for crimping is often possible, you will almost always reduce its lifetime and reliability over a proper crimped connection to stranded wire. If youre making things for pay, get the right tools. See ARP 2600 for example of this useage on the PCB power pins using Molex KK156 connectors and mill max round pins.Īgree with the prior post that decent import crimp tool for 'DuPont' style connectors will work fine for most DIY crimped connectors, and only cost around $30. 100" spaced wire leads of the pot itself you do NOT want to use MTA-100 series as these have limited pin depth due to their IDC contact construction.Ī molex KK-100 with crimped pins -which can be soldered instead- will allow the pot pin leads to slide past the contact and exit the connector body as far as required. If you're planning to put the connector on the. ![]() Originally created by the AMP connector company, which has now become part of another company and operates under a new name. MTA-100 and MTA-156 are IDC connector families. They make hundreds of different connector types. 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I emailed customer services with this query:ĭear Corel - When I installed Pro X5 I was emailed a link by Corel which enabled me to download NewBlue Titler EX. ![]() Once you equip this set of armor, it is guaranteed that you can stay longer on battlegrounds. Silent Legion Light Helmet, Chestguard of Asura, Voidforged Dragonhide Bracers, Vermin Hide Pants, and the Vermin Hide Boots. Lastly, you can pick these pieces from light armor if you would want. Voidforged Fragon Helmet, Barachan Reiver Buff Coat, Voidforged Dragonbone Bracers, Cimmerian Steel Tasset, and Voidforged Dragon Boots.įor the medium armor boost for this one, you should pick the following armors: Helm of Sobek, Commander’s Chestplate, Gauntlets of Sobek, Tasset of Sobek, and Boots of Sobek. To boost this stat, these are the armor line up that you must have. The next important stat that you highly need in combat is your health stat. 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